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Biwiring works by reducing of the tendency for strong bass signals to overwhelm the rest of the audio signal. The larger, more powerful bass signal can greatly affect the integrity of the much lower-energy components of both the midrange and fragile treble information. Running separate wires from the amplifier can have a profound impact on relieving the tweeter circuit from the back flush of EMF (elector-motive force) generated by the woofer. When the audio signal to the woofer ceases, such as when a loud bass note is finished, the woofer tries to stop moving. In trying to stop, it actually goes through a process of "settling" because it is too massive to just stop instantly. As it settles, it moves forward and backward repeatedly until it can completely come to rest. During this movement, as the voice coil is moving through the field of the magnet, it generatesits own signal. That generated signal is sent backward up the woofer wires and into the crossover, where it corrupts the rest of the music signal.
Biwiring also affords you another grand luxury. Aside from helping to eliminate distortions, it also permits you to select specific wires for each frequency application. If you have been in this hobby/sport/disease for any length of time, you will have at least heard by now that all wires, both loudspeaker and interconnect, possess their own characteristic sound. When biwiring, you have the ability to match a wire that is open and airy, but is perhaps lean in the bass region, to the tweeter. By the same token, some of the best bass performance is delivered from wires that aren’t so revealing or extended in the high frequencies. So hitch up the low-frequency drivers with that wire. Now you’ve got the best of both worlds!
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